How Handloom Contributes to Sustainable Fashion: A Deep Dive into Eco-Friendly Style
Today we love to shop for daily needs and garments, the entertainment industry often influences us. We see a dress and dream of owning the same with a thought that this will “make me look good”. Then comes another dress and it’s again the same. In the world of social media, we try to mimic the perfection of owning the best and looking the best. So, seeing this as an opportunity a lot of brands have popped up to support this by providing the latest fashion (garments and accessories) as soon as possible at a lower cost. Well, this factor of producing the fashion as soon as possible they miss out on the factors that affect the environment. Do you know what fabrics are used to create them? Polyester and nylon. These fabrics are made from man-made fiber, which are derived from crude oil. Basically, these are plastics, which become part of landfills and take ages to decompose. How does it affect us? Why should we care if we get them for a lower price? The answer lies in its composition and combination of carcinogenic chemicals, these chemicals also mix into our nature causing toxicity in everything around us.
How did these fabrics come into existence?
Polyester fabrics got their beginnings back in the mid-1930s when a man by the name of W.H. Carothers, a DuPont employee at the time, discovered that he could create fibers by mixing carboxyl acids and alcohols. Although successful, this project was shelved when Carothers stumbled upon Nylon, another fabric that is still incredibly popular today. In 1939, two British scientists, W.K. Birtwhistle and C.G. Ritchie, picked up where Carothers left off. It wasn’t until 1941 that the very first true polyester fiber, called Terylene, came into existence. The pair continued their work until DuPont bought the rights from them in 1946. Later, DuPont came up with a similar polyester fiber called Dacron.
Only the above-mentioned fabrics are not responsible for the mishaps caused in the industry there are various other factors as well that cause threats to our environment. Some of the reasons are:
• The use of natural resources has been increasing over the last few years.
• Chemicals used in the textile industry have led to an increase in water pollution which is currently leading to water scarcity.
• Textiles consume large amounts of fossil fuels during wet treatment. Fossil fuels contain large amounts of carbon and react with oxygen to form carbon dioxide which increases the amount of global warming in the world.
• Apparel industries also need to eliminate environmental hazards and improve process efficiency
The sustainable approach in the industry
What is sustainability? There are many considerations when selecting materials to manufacture products, deliver services and/or develop environments. Sustainable materials may be sourced from low environmental impact or renewable resources, can be more durable with a longer lifecycle, have a smaller footprint to manufacture or use or be easier to break down at the end of life. Some can even be human-made materials, designed to help preserve natural resources. Today industries focus on developing products that help preserve the environment, also consumers have started to use such products.
These fabrics have been recently discovered, we have been using some fabrics since time immemorial like cotton, silk, and wool.
A Brief Introduction to Handloom in India
The uncertain nature of Hindu chronology does not allow us to state with certainty when cotton was first spun and woven in India. As texts suggest handloom weaving dates back to Indus Valley Civilisation, around 3000 BCE. Archeologists found fragments of woven cotton and woolen fabrics at excavations of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro. But there have been evidences found in Egypt as well. Due to India’s damp weather, the fabric evidence was not sustained, so a lot of the samples were found in Egypt due to its warm and dry weather. Still, our handlooms were well known all over the world, around the 15th century due to Vasco-Da-Gama’s discovery of trade routes between India and Europe. Portugal, Spain, Holland, France, and Britain took a lot of interest in Indian fabrics, especially cotton and silk. From the 16th century European trading companies started buying the fabrics. Indian handloom sector was the sole supplier of cloths; however, such monopoly came to an end by the early twentieth century due to the Industrial Revolution in Europe. But, truth be said Europeans became obsessed with our handloom fabrics so much so that they consider it royalty. The Industrial Revolution did beat the demand for our handloom fabrics, but honestly, they tried to copy the fabrics that were made in India to sell them at a lesser price. Though this went on for a few a century, out Independence revolution brought the plight of our fabrics as Britishers were condemning our fabrics and using as royalty and selling Indians their power loom fabrics. Thanks to our father of the nation Mahatma Gandhi’s Swadeshi movement, we could revive our handloom industry and still continue to do so.
Evolution of Fabric Making
Overtime due to industrialization, power looms took over and the handmade fabrics took backseat. But Indian cottage industry has kept it alive. But this could not stop the weavers who keep the legacy going on. Our handloom industry is one of the biggest unorganized industries, which has skilled artisans living in small towns and villages. They make sarees, kurtas, shawls, bags, etc., which is purchased by your beloved mother. Currently, the Indian handloom sector has evolved and grown and holds a unique position in the export market, where the share of Indian handloom fabric in the world is 95% (Annual report 2016-17, Ministry of Textiles, GOI) being exported to over 125 countries.
Today our handloom sees the glory as we Indians love our varied sarees like Chanderi and Maheshwari from Madhya Pradesh, Kanjivaram from Tamil Nadu, Ikkat and Bomkai from Orissa, Patola from Gujarat, Baluchari from West Bengal, Banrasi from Uttar Pradesh, Kosa from Chhattisgarh Paithani from Maharashtra Pochampally from Andhra Pradesh and a lot more as each of our state has its special handloom.
The Handloom area assumes an essential part of the nation’s economy. The economic liberalization, uniqueness, flexibility of production, openness to innovation, adaptability to the supplier’s desires, cluster approach, strategies for aggressive marketing, and implementation of various social welfare measurements have shown a positive sign in the growth of Indian handloom sectors.
Fabric making
Now since we know the legacy, how was it made?
It is believed that the first loom in which these fabrics were made was a “Pit Loom” (similar to the image). which was used by ancient Indian weavers. The pit loom consisted of a simple frame with a horizontal warp and a vertical shed, operated by a single person using a shuttle to weave the fabric. First handlooms were frames made of wood and bamboo, the warp threads were stretched across the length and warp threads two lengths of wood. One end was secured to the ground and the other was attached to a peg at the top. The weft was tied to a stick and pushed across between the warps one up and one down, this is how the fabric was woven and similarly woven today as well.
Since the fabric is always made from natural fibers they are either grown on plants and trees or made by larva. So due to the composition of these materials, they easily decompose to become a part of the environment without damaging it. Other than the fabric making dyeing also contributes to a sustainable approach to the processing of the fabrics. Materials can be dyed with vegetables or other plants and roots easily available in the Indian market. Natural vegetable dyes for fabric are dyes or colorants derived From natural sources, that is, plants, animals, fungi and minerals. It is mostly derived from plants. These are obtained from root, stem, leaves, bark, berries, Etc. Many natural dyes require the use of ssubstances called mordants to bind the dye to the textile fibres. Some of the commonly used dyes are obtained from pomegranate which gives yellow, khaki & grey colour, marigold gives bright yellow colour, madder also known as “Manjishtha” gives red, pink and orange colour, it also has anti-microbial and astringent properties, mulberry plant gives green colour & is used to dye wool, silk, and cotton, indigo gives blue colour used in India since ages.
Indian Handloom: An Eco-Friendly Tapestry
India's handloom sector stands as a testament to the harmonious coexistence of tradition and sustainability. Rooted in ancient practices, this industry has evolved as a beacon of eco-friendliness in an era dominated by mass production and environmental concerns.
At the heart of handloom's ecological advantage lies its minimal reliance on fossil fuels. Unlike power looms that consume vast amounts of electricity, handlooms are powered by human energy. This simple fact significantly reduces the carbon footprint associated with fabric production. Moreover, the traditional dyes used in handloom often come from natural sources like plants, minerals, and insects. These natural dyes not only impart exquisite colors but also pose minimal harm to the environment. In contrast, synthetic dyes employed in mass production often contain harmful chemicals that pollute water bodies and soil.
Handloom weaving is inherently a localized process, reducing the need for extensive transportation. The raw materials, often sourced from nearby regions, minimize the carbon emissions caused by long-distance transportation. This localized approach also contributes to the sustainability of local economies and preserves traditional agricultural practices.
Furthermore, handloom products are renowned for their durability and longevity. Unlike fast fashion items that quickly become obsolete, handwoven fabrics are designed to last. This durability reduces the need for frequent replacements, thereby decreasing textile waste. Handloom garments are often cherished possessions, passed down through generations, further emphasizing the concept of sustainable consumption.
Conclusion
Indian handloom is more than just a fabric; it is a living embodiment of sustainability, offering a tangible solution to the pressing environmental challenges of our time. Its minimal carbon footprint, a result of human-powered looms and localized production, significantly reduces greenhouse gas emissions contributing to climate change. By eschewing fossil fuels, handloom helps mitigate the depletion of finite resources and slows down global warming.
The use of natural dyes in handloom is a boon for water bodies and soil health. Unlike synthetic dyes that contain harmful chemicals, natural dyes are biodegradable and pose no threat to aquatic life or land ecosystems. This practice contributes to preserving biodiversity and maintaining the ecological balance.
Moreover, the durability and longevity of handloom products reduce textile waste, a major environmental concern. Fast fashion, characterized by short-lived, low-quality garments, contributes immensely to landfills. Handloom, with its focus on quality and craftsmanship, promotes a circular economy by extending the life cycle of products and minimizing resource consumption.
Education and Innovation in Sustainable Design at SAGE University Bhopal
At the forefront of promoting sustainable practices in design, SAGE University Bhopal offers comprehensive programs in Product Design, Interior Design, and Visual Communication. These programs equip students with the skills and knowledge to create eco-friendly and culturally significant designs, much like the handloom fabrics that contribute to sustainable fashion.
Bachelor of Design in Product Design: B.Des. in Product Design program encourages students to innovate with sustainable materials and techniques, drawing inspiration from traditional crafts such as handloom weaving. By incorporating these principles, graduates are prepared to design products that are not only functional but also environmentally responsible.
Bachelor of Design in Interior Design: The B.Des. Interior Design program at SAGE University Bhopal emphasizes the use of sustainable materials and design practices. Students learn to create spaces that are both aesthetically pleasing and eco-friendly, integrating traditional textiles like handloom fabrics into modern interiors.
Bachelor of Design in Visual Communication: B.Des. in Visual Communication students are trained to convey powerful messages through design. With a focus on sustainability, they are encouraged to promote eco-friendly fashion and cultural heritage, using handloom as a medium to communicate the importance of preserving traditional crafts.
By choosing SAGE University, Bhopal students can become leaders in the sustainable fashion movement, using their design skills to make a positive impact on the environment and society. This connection between education and sustainability aligns with the growing demand for eco-friendly practices in the fashion and design industries.
Ms. Garima Vishwakarma
Assistant Professor
School of Design
Department of Design